What Sand to Use on Artificial Grass and How Much

The right sand for artificial grass

The sand that goes on artificial grass is kiln-dried silica sand. Kiln-dried means it has been heated until there is no moisture left in it, so it pours like salt and runs freely down between the fibres. Silica means it is a hard, clean quartz sand that won't break down, stain or feed weeds.

Grain size matters more than most people expect. Sand sold for synthetic turf in Australia is a fine, even grade, with suppliers commonly listing particles of around 0.2 to 0.6 mm. Grains in that range slip past the blades and settle at the backing instead of sitting on top of the pile. Coarser sand tends to lodge in the fibres and show, and very fine dusty sand can wash out or clog drainage holes.

If you want the longer comparison of sand against rubber crumb, cork and other infills, our guide to silica sand vs rubber crumb infill covers the material choice.

Why beach sand and building sand are the wrong choice

Beach sand carries salt, shell grit and organic matter. The salt draws moisture, the shell fragments are sharp and uneven, and anything organic gives weeds and moss something to grow in. It is also rarely dry enough to brush in properly.

Building sand, brickie's sand and paving sand hold moisture and contain clay and fine particles. Damp sand clumps on the surface, refuses to drop into the pile and leaves muddy streaks after rain. The fines can also work into the perforations in the backing and slow drainage over time.

What the sand does once it is in

Sand infill does three jobs. It adds weight so the turf can't ripple or lift as the backing expands in summer heat. It supports the fibres at the base so they recover after being walked on. And it shields the backing from UV, which helps the whole lawn last longer. Skip it on a standard garden turf and you will usually see flattening and wrinkles within a season or two.

How much sand per m²

Our how to lay artificial grass guide recommends 4 to 6 kg of kiln-dried sand per m² for a typical residential lawn.

Other sources quote different figures. APT, the manufacturer behind our range, publishes its own DIY install guide, which specifies fine washed silica sand brushed in as a topdress. It describes the dressing by depth within the pile rather than by weight. Read literally, that depth would be a very heavy dressing for a home lawn, so we work in kilograms instead. Spread rates quoted by Australian sand suppliers also vary widely, from roughly 5 kg up to 12 kg per m² for landscape turf, and higher again for putting greens. Start at the lighter end and add more if the lawn needs it, since sand is easy to add and hard to remove.

The variables that push you up or down are pile height and density. A longer pile has more room between the fibres and can take more sand before it shows. A short, dense pile fills quickly. Our pile height guide explains how those numbers play out across products.

Quick quantity table

At 4 to 6 kg per m², here is what a few common lawn sizes need. This table assumes 20 kg bags, the most common retail size.

Lawn area	Sand at 4 kg/m²	Sand at 6 kg/m²	20 kg bags
10 m²	40 kg	60 kg	2 to 3
20 m²	80 kg	120 kg	4 to 6
40 m²	160 kg	240 kg	8 to 12
60 m²	240 kg	360 kg	12 to 18
100 m²	400 kg	600 kg	20 to 30

To work out your own number, multiply your lawn area in m² by 4 and by 6 to get a range in kilograms, then divide by 20 for bags. Round up by one bag so you have some left for the edges and a later touch-up. If you haven't measured yet, our guide on how to measure your yard for turf works through the area calculation and how rolls at the 3.71 m width fit your space.

Buying sand: 20 kg bags or a bulk bag

For small and medium lawns, 20 kg bags are the simplest option. They are easy to carry through a side gate, they stay dry until you open them, and leftover bags store neatly for future top-ups.

Past roughly 30 to 40 bags, a bulk bag starts to make sense. Landscape suppliers sell kiln-dried sand in large bulk bags, often sized around a tonne, delivered on a truck with a crane or tailgate drop. The price per kilogram is usually lower, but you need somewhere flat to put it, ideally close to the lawn, and you must keep it covered. A bulk bag that gets rained on stops being kiln-dried sand, and wet sand won't brush in until it dries out again.

A few buying tips:

• Ask specifically for kiln-dried silica sand for synthetic turf, and check the bag or docket says so.
• Lasting Grass supplies turf only, so source sand from a local landscape or building supplier. It is a small line in the overall budget, and our own rough estimate for DIY base materials (sand included) is around $10 to $20 per m².

How to spread and brush in the sand

Spread sand only after the turf is fully laid, joined, trimmed and pinned. Once it is in, adjusting the turf gets much harder.

1. Pick a dry day. The turf, the sand and the weather all need to be dry. Even a light dew makes sand stick to the fibres.
2. Brush the pile up first. Run a stiff broom against the grain across the whole lawn so the fibres stand up and open a path for the sand.
3. Spread in thin passes. Use a drop spreader, a seed spreader or a shovel flicked in a wide arc. Aim for a third of your total on each pass, rather than tipping a whole bag in one spot.
4. Brush after every pass. Sweep against the pile with a stiff broom, or a power brush on larger areas, until the sand disappears and the fibres stand back up.
5. Check the surface. If you can see sand sitting on top of the blades, you have either gone too heavy or not brushed enough. Brush again before adding more.
6. Water it in lightly. A gentle sprinkle with the hose helps the sand settle down to the backing. Let it dry, then give the lawn a final brush.

When you can skip sand

Most landscape turf on a soil base should have sand. There are a few cases where people leave it out or use much less.

Balconies and rooftops are the main one. Every kilogram adds load to the structure, sand can wash into balcony drains, and many balcony installs are small enough that the turf is glued or held by its own weight. Our page on turf for balconies covers that setup. Small offcuts, mats and indoor or event uses are also often left uninfilled.

Some products are sold as non-infill turf, usually with a short, dense pile. If you are unsure, check the product specification before skipping sand on a full lawn. A typical 25 to 40 mm garden turf without infill is the one most likely to flatten and ripple.

Topping up sand over time

Sand slowly migrates and compacts, especially in high-traffic paths and where dogs run. A busy lawn usually needs a top-up every two to three years, and a quiet one can go longer.

The signs it is time: fibres that flatten again within days of brushing, turf that feels spongy or shifts underfoot, and blades that look longer than they used to because the sand level has dropped. A top-up is usually a bag or two spread over the worn areas and brushed in exactly as above. Our artificial grass maintenance guide fits this into the wider care routine.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best sand for artificial grass?

Kiln-dried silica sand with a fine, even grain, commonly around 0.2 to 0.6 mm. It runs freely between the fibres, stays clean and won't feed weeds. Avoid beach sand, building sand and brickie's sand, which hold moisture, clump on the surface and can clog drainage.

How many bags of sand do I need for artificial grass?

At 4 to 6 kg per m², a 20 m² lawn needs about 80 to 120 kg, or four to six 20 kg bags. Multiply your area by 4 and 6 for a kilogram range, divide by 20 for bags, and round up by one. Start at the lighter end, since adding more later is easy.

Can I put too much sand on fake grass?

Yes. Overfilled turf looks sandy, feels hard underfoot and can carry sand indoors on shoes and paws. If you see sand sitting on top of the blades after brushing, stop and brush the excess into thinner areas before adding any more.

Does sand make artificial grass hotter?

All synthetic turf gets hot in full summer sun, because the yarn and backing absorb most of the heat. Light-coloured silica sand adds little to that compared with darker infills. Shade and a quick hose-down on hot afternoons make a much bigger difference than the choice of sand.